Climbing

Climbing & bouldering

Grip and pulling strength relative to bodyweight, locked-off arms, tension through the core to keep the feet on, and antagonist work to keep elbows and shoulders healthy.

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Climber locking off on a bouldering wall and reaching for the next hold

Muscles worked

Neck (Front)Upper traps — 30% importance (Front)Front delts (Front)Side delts (Front)Chest — 30% importance (Front)Serratus anterior (Front)Biceps — 80% importance (Front)Forearms & grip — 100% importance (Front)Abs — 70% importance (Front)Obliques — 50% importance (Front)Hip flexors — 55% importance (Front)Quads (Front)Adductors (Front)Shins (tibialis) (Front)Calves (Front)Outer shins (peroneals) (Front)Feet (arch & toes) — 40% importance (Front)Neck (Back)Upper traps — 30% importance (Back)Upper back (rhomboids, mid/lower traps) — 75% importance (Back)Rear delts — 55% importance (Back)Side delts (Back)Rotator cuff — 60% importance (Back)Lats — 100% importance (Back)Lower back (erectors) (Back)Triceps — 40% importance (Back)Forearms & grip — 100% importance (Back)Hip abductors (glute med) (Back)Glutes (Back)Hamstrings (Back)Adductors (Back)Calves (Back)
FrontBack
  • Forearms
  • Lats
  • Biceps
  • Upper back
  • Abs
  • Rotator cuff
  • Rear delts
  • Hip flexors

The movement, phase by phase

  1. Hold & hang

    Finger flexors and forearms — the limiting factor for most climbers.

    • Grip
    Neck (Front)Upper traps (Front)Front delts (Front)Side delts (Front)Chest (Front)Serratus anterior (Front)Biceps (Front)Forearms & grip — primary (Front)Abs (Front)Obliques (Front)Hip flexors (Front)Quads (Front)Adductors (Front)Shins (tibialis) (Front)Calves (Front)Outer shins (peroneals) (Front)Feet (arch & toes) (Front)Neck (Back)Upper traps (Back)Upper back (rhomboids, mid/lower traps) (Back)Rear delts (Back)Side delts (Back)Rotator cuff (Back)Lats (Back)Lower back (erectors) (Back)Triceps (Back)Forearms & grip — primary (Back)Hip abductors (glute med) (Back)Glutes (Back)Hamstrings (Back)Adductors (Back)Calves (Back)

    Best exercises for this phase:

  2. Pull & lock-off

    Lats, biceps and upper back pull the body up and hold it.

    • Vertical pull
    • Elbow flexion (curl)
    • Row
    Neck (Front)Upper traps (Front)Front delts (Front)Side delts (Front)Chest (Front)Serratus anterior (Front)Biceps — primary (Front)Forearms & grip (Front)Abs (Front)Obliques (Front)Hip flexors (Front)Quads (Front)Adductors (Front)Shins (tibialis) (Front)Calves (Front)Outer shins (peroneals) (Front)Feet (arch & toes) (Front)Neck (Back)Upper traps (Back)Upper back (rhomboids, mid/lower traps) — primary (Back)Rear delts — primary (Back)Side delts (Back)Rotator cuff (Back)Lats — primary (Back)Lower back (erectors) (Back)Triceps (Back)Forearms & grip (Back)Hip abductors (glute med) (Back)Glutes (Back)Hamstrings (Back)Adductors (Back)Calves (Back)

    Best exercises for this phase:

  3. Body tension

    Keeping the feet on overhangs — abs, hip flexors and obliques.

    • Anti-extension (brace)
    • Hip flexion
    • Trunk flexion
    Neck (Front)Upper traps (Front)Front delts (Front)Side delts (Front)Chest (Front)Serratus anterior (Front)Biceps (Front)Forearms & grip (Front)Abs — primary (Front)Obliques — primary (Front)Hip flexors — primary (Front)Quads (Front)Adductors (Front)Shins (tibialis) (Front)Calves (Front)Outer shins (peroneals) (Front)Feet (arch & toes) (Front)Neck (Back)Upper traps (Back)Upper back (rhomboids, mid/lower traps) (Back)Rear delts (Back)Side delts (Back)Rotator cuff (Back)Lats (Back)Lower back (erectors) (Back)Triceps (Back)Forearms & grip (Back)Hip abductors (glute med) (Back)Glutes (Back)Hamstrings (Back)Adductors (Back)Calves (Back)

    Best exercises for this phase:

  4. Mantle & push

    Pressing down over a hold — triceps and chest (antagonists that also protect the shoulder).

    • Elbow extension
    • Horizontal push
    • Shoulder rotation
    Neck (Front)Upper traps (Front)Front delts — primary (Front)Side delts (Front)Chest — primary (Front)Serratus anterior (Front)Biceps (Front)Forearms & grip (Front)Abs (Front)Obliques (Front)Hip flexors (Front)Quads (Front)Adductors (Front)Shins (tibialis) (Front)Calves (Front)Outer shins (peroneals) (Front)Feet (arch & toes) (Front)Neck (Back)Upper traps (Back)Upper back (rhomboids, mid/lower traps) (Back)Rear delts (Back)Side delts (Back)Rotator cuff — primary (Back)Lats (Back)Lower back (erectors) (Back)Triceps — primary (Back)Forearms & grip (Back)Hip abductors (glute med) (Back)Glutes (Back)Hamstrings (Back)Adductors (Back)Calves (Back)

    Best exercises for this phase:

Most specific exercises

Training notes

  • Pull-ups, rows and hanging leg raises are the most specific gym work.
  • Add push and external-rotation work to prevent elbow and shoulder problems.

Mobility to pair with it

  • Wrist/finger flexor stretch
  • Hip opening (frog, butterfly)
  • Overhead shoulder mobility